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The "sealed
box," design is similar to the infinite-baffle
design. A sealed box is a
completely airtight enclosure. Since the speaker is
mounted in one face of the enclosure, there are no paths
for sound to travel from the rear of the speaker to the
front, blocking the rear sound wave
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"mixing" with the
front. Sealed speaker boxes are
quit easy to design and build, and they generally perform
well with almost any speaker excellent damping,
good power handling,
low-frequency response, and simplicity of design and
construction make the sealed-box enclosure an ideal choice
for many installations.
There are some drawbacks to
using a sealed box, however. Using a box that's too small
can have adverse effects both on your system's output level
and on its deep-bass performance. Efficiency is another
matter of concern; typically, sealed-box systems are less
efficient than vented systems (see vented systems) and
require more power and to achieve the same output
levels.
Building
the box
When building a sealed speaker
enclosure, as a rule of thumb you will want to use at least
3/4in. particle wood. Once the box is complete speaker holes
are cut, you will want to seal the box airtight with
silicone select. When mounting the woofer be sure to place
the rubber gasket that came with the speaker on the
underside of the speaker. if a rubber gasket did not come
with your speakers, place a small bead of silicone on the
underside of the woofer. It is important that you place a
screws in all holes located on the woofer as this will
create an airtight seal.
Testing the seal
You can test your seal by pressing
on the speaker cone. The speaker cone should return to its
normal position slowly, Check for any air leaks by listening
for any hissing sounds while moving the cone.
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